Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves

S. P. Kjeldsen, P. Bonmarin, M. G. Skafel, William M Drennan

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

Abstract

The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Title of host publicationProceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
PublisherISOPE
Pages152-158
Number of pages7
Volume3
StatePublished - 1998
Externally publishedYes
EventProceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4) - Montreal, Can
Duration: May 24 1998May 29 1998

Other

OtherProceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4)
CityMontreal, Can
Period5/24/985/29/98

Fingerprint

Stretching
Kinematics
Statistics

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Ocean Engineering

Cite this

Kjeldsen, S. P., Bonmarin, P., Skafel, M. G., & Drennan, W. M. (1998). Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves. In Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (Vol. 3, pp. 152-158). ISOPE.

Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves. / Kjeldsen, S. P.; Bonmarin, P.; Skafel, M. G.; Drennan, William M.

Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3 ISOPE, 1998. p. 152-158.

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

Kjeldsen, SP, Bonmarin, P, Skafel, MG & Drennan, WM 1998, Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves. in Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. vol. 3, ISOPE, pp. 152-158, Proceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4), Montreal, Can, 5/24/98.
Kjeldsen SP, Bonmarin P, Skafel MG, Drennan WM. Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves. In Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3. ISOPE. 1998. p. 152-158
Kjeldsen, S. P. ; Bonmarin, P. ; Skafel, M. G. ; Drennan, William M. / Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves. Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3 ISOPE, 1998. pp. 152-158
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