Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves

S. P. Kjeldsen; P. Bonmarin; M. G. Skafel; W. M. Drennan

Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves

S. P. Kjeldsen, P. Bonmarin, M. G. Skafel, W. M. Drennan

Research output: Contribution to conference › Paper › peer-review

Abstract

The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3^rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.

Original language	English (US)
Pages	152-158
Number of pages	7
State	Published - Jan 1 1998
Externally published	Yes
Event	Proceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4) - Montreal, Can Duration: May 24 1998 → May 29 1998

Other

Other	Proceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4)
City	Montreal, Can
Period	5/24/98 → 5/29/98

ASJC Scopus subject areas

Energy Engineering and Power Technology
Ocean Engineering
Mechanical Engineering

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Cite this

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title = "Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves",

abstract = "The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.",

author = "Kjeldsen, {S. P.} and P. Bonmarin and Skafel, {M. G.} and Drennan, {W. M.}",

year = "1998",

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T1 - Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves

AU - Kjeldsen, S. P.

AU - Bonmarin, P.

AU - Skafel, M. G.

AU - Drennan, W. M.

PY - 1998/1/1

Y1 - 1998/1/1

N2 - The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.

AB - The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.

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T2 - Proceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4)

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