Abstract
The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.
| Original language | English (US) |
|---|---|
| Title of host publication | Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference |
| Publisher | ISOPE |
| Pages | 152-158 |
| Number of pages | 7 |
| Volume | 3 |
| State | Published - 1998 |
| Externally published | Yes |
| Event | Proceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4) - Montreal, Can Duration: May 24 1998 → May 29 1998 |
Other
| Other | Proceedings of the 1998 8th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Part 3 (of 4) |
|---|---|
| City | Montreal, Can |
| Period | 5/24/98 → 5/29/98 |
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ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Ocean Engineering
Cite this
Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves. / Kjeldsen, S. P.; Bonmarin, P.; Skafel, M. G.; Drennan, William M.
Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3 ISOPE, 1998. p. 152-158.Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Conference contribution
}
TY - GEN
T1 - Velocities and accelerations in breaking waves
AU - Kjeldsen, S. P.
AU - Bonmarin, P.
AU - Skafel, M. G.
AU - Drennan, William M
PY - 1998
Y1 - 1998
N2 - The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.
AB - The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. While little is known about the statistics of these waves, even less is known of the dynamical conditions under which they occur. Nonlinear interactions among individual waves travelling within a group have been identified as an important mechanism in the formation of giant waves in the ocean. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just up-wave of the onset of plunging, and these results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model, and a model based on Stokes 3rd order developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the two other models.
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=0031619122&partnerID=8YFLogxK
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=0031619122&partnerID=8YFLogxK
M3 - Conference contribution
VL - 3
SP - 152
EP - 158
BT - Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
PB - ISOPE
ER -