Observations of wave transformation near breaking

Charles L. Vincent, Robert E. Jensen

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

1 Scopus citations

Abstract

Analysis of the change in the spectrum of wind waves over a 5-km reach just prior to the surf zone during a major extratropical storm indicates that significant shifts in the spectral distribution of wave energy occur. For both onshore and offshore winds, the midrange of the spectrum loses up to 40% of the energy content, while the low- and high-frequency ranges have an energy gain. In the onshore case, gain in the high-frequency range dominates, and in the offshore wind case (predominant wave energy propagation is still shoreward), gain in the low-frequency region dominates.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)249-251
Number of pages3
JournalJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Volume123
Issue number5
DOIs
StatePublished - 1997
Externally publishedYes

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Water Science and Technology
  • Ocean Engineering

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