Modeling of velocities in giant waves

S. P. Kjeldsen, W. M. Drennan, M. G. Skafel

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

6 Scopus citations


The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on numerous occasions. In this study, the non-linear packet-focusing technique, modified to account for an opposing current, is used to generate steep, plunging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measured just upwave of the onset of plunging. These results are compared to those of a superposition model, a modified stretching model and a model based on a Stokes 3rd-order theory developed for the present study. The present model represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly better than the other two models.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)170-172
Number of pages3
JournalInternational Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering
Issue number3
StatePublished - Sep 1 2000
Externally publishedYes


  • Giant waves
  • Modeling
  • Wave kinematics

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Mechanical Engineering


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