APPLICATION of SPECTRAL EQUILIBRIUM RANGES in the SURF ZONE

Jane Mc Kee Smith, Charles L. Vincent

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

3 Scopus citations

Abstract

Two spectral equilibrium ranges are identified in the surf zone based on spectra measured in the laboratory and field. For k > 1/depth (where k is wave number), the spectral shape is k-5/2 (Toba 1973, Kitaigorodskii 1983, Resio et al. 2001) and for k < 1/depth, the spectral shape is k-4/3 (Zakharov 1999). The measurements cover a broad range of conditions, including plane and barred beaches, multidirectional and unidirectional waves, wave heights from 3 cm to 3 m, and peak wave periods from 1.25 sec to 18 sec. The equilibrium range coefficients for the two ranges are found to be a function of the local wave height-to-water-depth ratio. Laboratory measurements of bimodal wave trains show that complex incident spectra evolve to the same equilibrium range shapes as single-peaked spectra, with the higher frequency spectral peak eliminated in the surf zone through a combination of wave breaking and nonlinear interactions. Wave breaking on a current also exhibits the same equilibrium range shape. The equilibrium ranges have applicability to linear and nonlinear wave modeling and pressure gauge analysis.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2002
Subtitle of host publicationSolving Coastal Conundrums, ICCE 2002
EditorsJane McKee Smith
PublisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
Pages269-279
Number of pages11
ISBN (Electronic)9812382380, 9789812382382
DOIs
StatePublished - 2003
Externally publishedYes
Event28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2002 - Cardiff, Wales, United Kingdom
Duration: Jul 7 2002Jul 12 2002

Publication series

NameProceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
Volume2003-January
ISSN (Print)0161-3782

Conference

Conference28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2002
Country/TerritoryUnited Kingdom
CityCardiff, Wales
Period7/7/027/12/02

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Oceanography

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